Have you ever told yourself “I’ve fallen in love at first sight” about a place you’ve been to? Well, this is what I thought while surrounded by the natural power of the Kalalau Trail.
I’ve hiked many trails in my life so far, visited spectacular viewpoints, and reached the tops of mountains in both summer and winter, but nothing made me feel as happy to be alive as this stunning environment on the island of Kauai.
The Kalalau Trail consists of various colors, vertiginous cliffs, and wild jungle areas. This is far from an entry-level hike, but the rewarding sceneries you see make you forget about (almost) all the fatigue.
It was impossible not to stop every few minutes to stare at those amazing views. You won’t care about the sun, the heat, or the thirst. It’s something that goes beyond everyone’s imagination.
This guide is meant firstly to provide you with all the information needed to face this impervious trail. In addition, you’ll find planning tips, the best spots to take some rest along the way, and my personal experience and advice. You should be prepared for this adventure and think twice about it, so I’ll cover everything you may have questions about!
Before you read ahead, I’d like to remind you that the Kalalau Trail was just a part of the trip to Kauai, and you can find the road trip tips for the island in this article!
Where is the Kalalau Trail?
The Kalalau Trail is located in the North of Kauai, one of the Hawaiian Islands.
It stretches for about 11 miles, which means a 22-mile (35 km) round-trip hike. You can meet different conditions here: mud and slippery terrain, river crossings, walking on the edge of cliffs, and tropical heat.
Sounds fun, doesn’t it?
How do you get to the Kalalau Trail?
You’ll probably need a car in most scenarios.
At the same time, there is a shuttle departing from Hanalei and stopping by Princeville resorts. It costs 35 USD for adults, with a discounted rate for children between 4 and 15 years old of 25 USD.
Please note that the pass includes the entrance to Ha’ena State Park but not to the camping site at the end of the trail. Moreover, the shuttle is your best option just for short day trips, in my opinion. Here to read more about the service.
If you’re willing to complete the trail and camp overnight at Kalalau Beach, then you’ll have to drive to the park’s parking lot. On the other hand, you could take the shuttle and try your luck a few days later hitchhiking – you should know it’s pretty common on the island. We drove two people on our way back!
First of all, The Na’pali Coast Wilderness Park requires a permit you can get only online at this website. The price is 35 USD per person for each night you’re planning to camp there. Once you’ve purchased this permit, you can reserve your parking spot here.
Be aware that both the camping permits AND the spots at the parking lot are limited, and you should plan your trip far ahead. The US government makes the spots available 90 days before the desired date, so you must be ready to book them ASAP!
How much does it cost to spend three days on the trail?
Besides the fees for the passes, you should take into consideration renting camping gear somewhere in Kauai.
There are a few spots around the island, which have similar prices. We chose Kayak Kauai mainly because it was the closest shop to our motel. Please be aware that equipment pickups and drop-offs can typically be made during store hours only, which are usually 8 AM to 4 PM. Don’t worry, you can arrange after-hours pickups, though! Just be sure to set it at least three days before.
I’d recommend reserving the gear and picking it up the same morning before heading to the trail. In this way, you’ll save one day of rental!
What is the final price breakdown for three days (two nights), then? Let’s take a look:
- Camping permit: 70 USD per person
- Parking pass: around 35/40 USD per vehicle
- Camping gear: around 115 USD – includes tent, one sleeping bag, and a water filter.
This brings you to a total of around 225 USD, just for one person.
Furthermore, you’ll have to add the car rental and the fuel.
Generally speaking, trips to Hawaii are expensive. If you’d like to focus on visiting the islands and save your legs some trouble, it’s totally fair!
However, this challenge will be worth the money and the effort you’ll spend on it, I guarantee it! You cannot see such landscapes every day.
How long should you stay in the Na’pali Coast?
I’ve reported the cost for three days because to me, it’s the best compromise between money, your body’s recovery time, and living the experience to the fullest.
Despite being quite a hiker and runner, I found this trail very demanding. We decided to make it in two days, with just a night at the campsite. If you have ever camped before, you know that you usually don’t sleep that much the first night. The adrenaline you get during the ascents and descents, together with the rewarding end of the Kalalau Trail is surely helpful, but it may not be enough for everybody.
Although we were positively overwhelmed by what we saw throughout the trail, it’s undeniable that our bodies felt the fatigue – especially on the way back the second day.
Are there any different itineraries?
So… is it possible to make it in two days? Sure thing, but be careful: you have to be fit to face the elevation gain and tricky terrains. In addition, you’ll likely have just the sunset to actually enjoy the beach at the campsite.
This is why I believe three days would let you start the hike in a different mood – since you wouldn’t be in a rush – and also allow you to take more breaks along the way. Once you arrive at the end of the first day, you have a full day to recover, relax, and connect with other travelers! What else?
Alternatively, you could divide your trekking among the three days equally – especially if you’d like to hike up the waterfalls, too.
There is a campsite at the fifth-mile marker at Hanakoa Valley which might be useful for you: you could include the waterfalls on your first day and set your tent at the halfway campsite. The second day would consist of reaching Kalalau Beach and enjoying the time there. Finally, you should go all the way back on the very last day.
And if none of this suits you – or you’d like to take some more rest – you can always stay there longer, up to six days. You’ll have to take money into account, though!
When is the best time to do the hike?
Kauai is well known to be one of the rainiest places on Earth, and the trail is no exception.
This means that the best months are from May to November, where the likelihood of precipitations is lower. Besides, the colors in the fall are truly amazing.
Looking at the wallet instead, January to March is the cheapest for you – and camping permits are easier to get. However, it pours rain at times throughout the winter, which makes the trail even more challenging and utterly dangerous. You can get sunny days during these months, though. This being said, I’d recommend trying your luck only if you’re a good trekker.
We went during the shoulder season in April, and we were blessed by the sun and the heat. The day before it rained here and there, so again – it’s a matter of pure luck sometimes. At the same time, you can get fair prices in these months as well. This might be your compromise, with an increased probability of finding good weather.
Is the trail crowded?
The first 2 miles are going to be a little busy because locals and not experienced hikers will usually end their hike at Hanakapiai Beach. However, it doesn’t mean that you cannot move. There’s plenty of room for everyone in this section. Besides, it will never be packed as classic tourist attractions like the Tour Eiffel, so you can chill out.
Once you go past the first checkpoint, you’re going to spend most of the time by yourself, with some random encounters.
What should you bring to the Kalalau Trail?
Firstly, consider that you’re carrying a tent, sleeping bags, and other gear that you might have rented. This equipment makes your backpack quite heavy already.
Since you’re likely borrowing a water filter too (it’s a must!), try to stay light on water bottles. There are a few spots along the way to refill your containers – rivers and streams that contain fresh water. What we did was purchase water bags equipped with straws – you can find them on Amazon. Hydration is essential for this challenging route, and that gear might be very handy!
The heat will be unbearable at times, so wear a hat! Also, bring proper high sun protection. At the same time, storms may surprise you (check the forecast before going there!). A rain jacket, long pants, and a change of clothes are recommended.
Last but not least, the food. Depending on the amount of time you’re going to spend on the trail, try to optimize the meals. Remember that your backpack is going to put extra weight on your shoulders with all the things you’ll carry!
So, a little recap of the basic contents of your backpack:
- Tent
- Sleeping bag
- Water filter
- Water bag (2 liters capacity to refill)
- Food for N days
- Rain jacket
- Sun protection
- Clothes change – if needed for rain, but definitely another t-shirt at least!
You have plenty of information now.
Before making any decision, though, you should read carefully how my experience has been in the next paragraphs. If you’re still doubtful, I’m sure my adventure will blow the clouds away from your mind!
My adventure on the Kalalau Trail
It’s 8 AM, and I am full of adrenaline – but a little sleepy. We’re finally approaching the parking lot, and the ranger asks for our permit and IDs. Yes, the camping pass will be bonded to your name, so remember to bring a piece of identification!
I do think I’ve never been as excited as I was back then – looking forward to facing the infinite lands of this demanding trail. My friend Diogo was going through the same emotions, and we both couldn’t wait to start.
There were just a few cars, and the morning breeze welcomed us. Everything was packed on our shoulders, and the unnecessary items were secured in the car. Please note that the parking lot has free access at night time, so store your belongings somewhere safe and locked!
Well, it was time to hike!
Warm up and don’t go too fast at the beginning
The first 2 miles – around 3 km or so – are mostly enjoyable and with just a few steep uphill. Take advantage of these ups and downs to test your legs and breathing without pushing too much. You have a long way to go!
Just a bunch of hundreds of meters after walking on a wooden path from the parking lot, you’ll find the actual starting point of the trail. There are public restrooms here – if you’d like to taste a final touch of humanity before heading into the wild (lol).
Don’t worry if you feel like the area is already crowded. Many locals or day trippers arrive early as well, but they’re just aiming for the first checkpoint on the beach – and less often, the waterfalls trail (more on this later).
Almost the entire first section is covered by the forest, with minimum visibility towards the Na’pali Coast. At some point, you’ll start going downhill on a slippery path. You’ll notice a helicopter landing spot, and then… There it is! The stunning view of the island’s coastline opens up in front of you.
I couldn’t believe my eyes. I had never seen something like that: full of colors, wild, and it seemed like one of the postcards you’d buy at a souvenir shop.
The people around you disappear, and you feel connected with this world.
The first checkpoint: Hanakapiai Beach
Heading down from the viewpoint there’s a tricky slippery road awaiting, with some steps annoyingly emulating wide stairs. You’ll probably find the end of the descent a bit full of people: simple, there is a river crossing!
The Hanakapiai stream crosses the area and marks the first main checkpoint, together with Hanakapiai Beach. I’ve noticed many braves jumping between rocks to make it on the other side. In my opinion, you’d better take your shoes off and enjoy the cool (very cool!) water on your legs. Nothing but energizing!
This being said, the vegetation might be more overwhelming during the winter – keep your eyes alert.
The beach is a good spot to take some rest, have a snack, and prepare yourself for the real challenge. Depending on how you are feeling, you can still change your plans – there is an alternate beautiful trail starting from this checkpoint that ends at Hanakapiai Waterfalls. It would be a pity not to use your overnight pass though, right? This is why I insist on telling you to assess your hiking skills before planning the trip.
Jurassic Park vibes
We didn’t stop for a long time at the beach since we didn’t want to lose the pace. There are some restrooms just a few meters into the forest after you restart hiking, if you have urgent needs.
The trail goes up with some sharp turns, and you start gaining elevation again.
I was so excited after the first views of the coast that I couldn’t keep my eyes off the area every time I pointed toward it. The vegetation there was impressive, dominating the narrow path. I couldn’t resist gently petting every plant, wondering which benefits or dangers they might have hidden.
We met some hikers who were coming back from the campsite and we asked them about the trail conditions – they were super available. People are so friendly when it comes to helping each other in these situations, and I’m so grateful that every place I traveled to shows we can trust humankind.
Have you ever watched Jurassic Park? Well, this is the place that was recorded for some of the movie scenes – from the sky. I felt like Mr. Grant looking for dinosaurs, except there weren’t any (and I’d say luckily!). At the same time, we were finally at the end of another shadowed section, when we eventually stared at a natural painting that made me feel so alive: the mountains from the movie!
Here, the trail leads you to an open-air segment where you can just stop and wonder about the awesome planet we live in.
Sit.
Breathe.
Smile.
This is the perfect spot to rest a little and enjoy the ride. You’re around mile number four, and you are starting to feel rewarded, don’t you?
Jungle, mud, and the risky business
From this moment on, you are going to be challenged by switchbacks into the jungle alternated with narrow roads on the coast.
One of the major downhill into the green brings you to the campsite at the fifth mile. In my opinion, this is your last turning point. If you feel like you cannot walk for another 5/6 miles, then this is your final stop and you can make yourself comfortable.
There is another river crossing slightly ahead, which might be good for refilling your water (remember the filter!). We took advantage of the fresh stream to cool down because the heat was becoming unbearable in the exposed areas.
Be aware that the trail turns muddy and slippery in the jungle, even in sunny conditions.
At some point, you’re going to face a very steep descent pebbly hill. This leads to the seventh-mile checkpoint, but more importantly to the crucial and most dangerous section of the whole Kalalau Trail: Crawler’s Ledge.
This place requires extreme attention. I’ll be honest with you – I was a little scared, despite being quite an expert on deadly views.
You’ll be walking on the edge of a rocky cliff, with just a narrow path for your moves. If you don’t suffer from dizziness, this won’t be a problem. On the other hand, there is one trickier factor to take into account. You’re carrying a lot of weight on your shoulders, and the backpack – plus the equipment – may cause you to lose your balance. I’d recommend studying the trail right in front of you before diving into it.
Personally, I held some rocks with my hands while crossing Crawler’s Ledge to help myself out. You can be the most experienced hiker in the world, but safety always comes first!
This being said, I was crazy enough to stare at the void and the ocean underneath to fully comprehend what I was going through. I took a second to realize.
I was in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, hiking one of the most challenging and amazing trails in the world, surrounded by the love of Mother Nature… and one step away from sure death. So freaking exciting! (Please don’t think I’m insane).
The last four miles and the colors of the Na’pali Coast
You’ve overcome the worst challenge of the trail! How are you feeling? Well, we were full of adrenaline.
Not far away from the scary cliff, we had a pleasing encounter: some wild goats! Quietly having lunch, we thought it was time for us to eat as well. We were around mile number eight, and we found a good spot close to a tiny stream covered by plants.
This section is still out and back between green and the coastline, but the switchbacks become shorter. There are still a few steep hills, though. You should know that besides its length, the Kalalau Trail is quite demanding because of the endless ups and downs.
The sun was high over us, and the fatigue started to be a tougher opponent. And then, there it was: the sign that marked the beginning of the final segment of this wonderful hike!
Just a few steps further and you feel even more grateful and rewarded. Open your eyes wide because the view is unbelievable! On your left, you have the green and powerful mountains. At your right, you see the red ground and the blue ocean. Now look straight ahead to locate what you looked forward to the entire time: Kalalau Beach and the campsite!
I’ve never seen such a pretty contrast between colors. Here, the high and full-of-life peaks fight with the barren hills that disappear into the ocean. The landscape I was staring at it’s something that cannot be described by simple words. You have to be there!
After taking a break to think about the beauty of this place one more time, the last mile or so is waiting for you. Mostly downhill and plain, it includes a river crossing where you can take one last bath before reaching the beach. I’ve never been so happy to dive into cold water, it was so refreshing!
The campsite, the beach, the end
The campsite is located next to the beach, under some very friendly trees. There is a spot for everyone, so set up your tent. Here you can chat with many people who chose your same destiny. We had a good time with a couple from the US – they were in their fifties! It’s never too late, right?
Depending on your pace, the sunset may be approaching when you reach the end. There is a sort of cave on the beach that you can check out. Moreover, there is a small waterfall where you can refill your water.
What we did was enjoy the moment and sit to see the sunset, until it was dark enough to say that our adventure was over (well, we had to go back the day after… but I’d repeat myself).
That’s all, folks!
Steep hills, creepy cliffs, wonderful nature, and brave people: all make the Kalalau Trail worth the ride.
Now, if you are ready to dive into this challenging paradise, I hope this article has been useful and I wish you good luck! Please share in the comments if you’ve ever hiked a trail like this one, I’d like to find out about other places! Don’t forget to let me know if you embark on this adventure, too. I’d love to hear your personal experience!
Leave a Reply